EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height

Before I installed this in my main panel I had to call an A/C repair man out to the house at least once a year. My A/C has a circuit board on almost all of the components, and it doesn't take much to damage them. Since the install, I've not had to call him out again. It's been about 4 years. Funny how the repair man never recommended anything like this...If you've replaced a breaker before, then you can install this yourself. It's that easy.I wish I found this years ago. I recommend it to all my friends. I would definitely buy it again. It has paid for itself several times over.

Electrical contractor here with 44 years experience. The Ultra2 is one of the best for the price I have used . It does come with some install challenges vs. the "snap-in" style of surge suppressors which never offer as much kVa protection as this unit. Now, on to the entertaining novels I have been reading in the Reviews section. I have to chuckle reading these comments by "Handy Guys" and homeowners. 1st off, I highly recommend against getting inside a live electrical panel UNLESS you have years of experience. I don't let helpers get in them and they are out there every day in the field doing this work with a basic knowledge + understanding of what they are looking at. Even if you "thought" you killed power to the panel, ALWAYS check the "Line" lugs with a voltmeter. Don't know what a Line lug is? Then don't do the job.Next, many of the pics show the breaker powering the surge suppressor in various positions in the panel, such as the middle, or bottom, etc. The guys doing this don't "know" what they are doing. For maximum effectiveness, the breaker powering the surge suppressor, or if it is a "snap-in" surge suppressor, should ALWAYS be placed nearest the incoming Line voltage (just under the panel main breaker, or if a Main Lug Only sub-panel, closest to where the Line lugs are terminated). If you happen to have a meterbase disconnect with breaker spaces, that is the prime location to install the surge suppressor!Next, NO, you are not supposed to add length to the lead wires, especially the neutral. This would be a warranty violation and reduces the effectiveness of your surge suppressor. When the surge suppressor is installed in a proper location closest to the incoming Line voltage, I always cut the neutral wire as short as possible. This is recommended in most install instructions. These 2 aforementioned items many times require you to move breaker positions in the panel, which also requires splicing breaker load wires to create length. Again, if you do not have experience (in the field) of splicing solid copper wire, Don't do it! Improper wire splices are a common cause of over-heating conductors and can cause fires down the line INSIDE YOUR WALL! All of this sound like Chinese? If it does, hire a "Licensed" electrical contractor, verify his license online with your state and have the job done properly, or you are just spinning your wheels!

This is the second one I’ve purchased and installed. It’s a very basic product, and while some people have their doubts about it, I find it gives a good peace of mind. It can be a little challenging to install, especially if you're working with an older breaker panel box that doesn’t offer much room to work with. Surface-mounted boxes provide more flexibility for mounting, which is something to keep in mind. Overall, it gets the job done.

Installed it months ago so far working.

We had a power outage a few days before installing the surge protector. And a GFI and the kitchen failed.It's important to connect the surge protector as close as possible to where the ground and neutral enter the bus bars.Will need the following materials and tools to install properly if your breaker box is vertical and mounting unit at bottom of box.50 Amp double pole circuit breaker to match your breaker panel (called for in instructions).One each Red, Black, Green and White 12 AWG stranded wire 2 to 3 feet (60 - 90 cm) long each. May be shorter or longer depending on your panel and mounting location.4 wire Nuts (Yellow).Electrical tape (optional)Wire strippers.Flat Blade screw driver.HammerPliersSmall round file to remove burrs.RTV or Silicon Gasket Material. Especially if Breaker box is part of the service entrance and is outside. Ours is outside.It takes longer than you expect to install, if you want to install it right. Depending on your experience 30 minutes to an hour.The instructions call for the double pole 50 amp circuit breaker to be installed close as to the main breaker as possible.In our case we had to move two single pole 20 amp Breakers down which go to Kitchen GFI. And use those positions to install the 50 amp breaker next to the main breaker.Using Pliers broke out two filler tabs for the 20 amp breakers moved down.Instructions also calls for a liquid tight connection to box but there is no gasket included to make a liquid tight connection.If your breaker panel is indoors and there are no water pipes near the panel, you may be able to install it without a liquid tight connection. Or use a silicone RTV gasket sealant to seal the unit tight to the exterior of the panel box. This was the option we chose. And we mounted the unit at the bottom of the box to protect it from the rain and weather. Used a good sized bead so that the RTV squeezed out and into the inside of box completely sealing unit to box.Used hammer and the flat blade screwdriver to knock out the plug at the bottom nearest to the back and pliers to pull it off. Sometimes there is a burr that is left and it will need to be filed smooth.The wires supplied on the unit are about 18 inches long (45 cm) so we had to lengthen the red and black wires to reach to the 50 Amp Breaker at the top near the main breaker.Had to lengthen the green wire to connect them as close as possible to the ground entry/connection point on the ground bus.Had to lengthen the white wire to connect them as close as possible to the neutral entry/connection point on the neutral bus.Although the unit comes with 14 AWG stranded wires up sized to 12 AWG wire to reduce resistance. Do not use automotive grade 14 gauge stranded the insulation is not rated for AC voltage.We striped the wires and used yellow wire nuts that make the connections to the added wire. Then for additional safety wrapped electrical tape in the same direction we turned the nuts. Then fold it over the nut on to the wire and taped over for additional safety.Now house is fully protected against surges. But still will use 120V surge protection strips to provide additional protection for electronic devices.Added this unit to protect the electronic controls on our new dryer and our induction range. But it also provides protection till the refrigerator, microwave and air fry oven which all have electronic control boards and adding a hundred twenty volt surge protector is not easily done.The reason down grades to 4 stars is because the wire length is too short and had to add on to make it work in this application and they did not provide a gasket which are available from McMaster-Carr and are intended for a 1 inch hose washer. Wasn't about to buy 100 pieces for one installation and pay shipping.If you have everything on hand it will take you about 30 minutes to one hour to install it. But because we had to run back to the store to get additional wire it took us 2 hours. The wire is relatively inexpensive at $0.39 a foot here locally. It's better to buy a little more wire and cut off the excess then to have to go to the store again.The 2 pole 50 amp breaker was also less expensive locally and under $10.The reason this unit was installed in the way we did is because I used to work for a commercial contractor and had to learn about and specify on the permit drawings how to properly install surge protection and lightning protection.*** Up Date March 2019*** we have had a couple of thunderstorms here locally in February and March. Saw the surge protector in action. A surge came from the Utility side (this is why you connected closest to the main) and the surge protector acted immediately and shunted the surge to ground. Lights did not dim appreciably but didn't notice our computers and TVs turn off just for a second then turn back on.The surge protector work the way it was supposed to. When it's shunted the surge to ground there was a temporary loss of power, but once the search had passed. The Protector returned back to normal mode... that's why the TV turned back on. And my son's computer did a check to make sure everything was running okay. We also have standby power supplies with surge protection on our computers.That extra effort to install it correctly protected all our electronics and the new washer and dryer we just purchased.