BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Detector V2.0 - BTT SFS Sensor Detects Filament Break/Runout/Jam/Tying for 1.75mm Use with SKR Mini E3 V3.0, SKR 3, Manta E3EZ, Octopus Pro

So this product does work.I am using an Ender 3 V2, with the JyersUI firmware (a great upgrade btw).There is a number of problems with this device which you will need to over come if you are using an Ender 3 v2.All the reviews are mixed on here, that might be due to various printers and software.I can tell you this, if you have a Ender 3 V2 you will need to jump through a few hoops to make this work.I am going to outline what I had to do to fix this.First the wiring for at least a Ender 3 V2 is backwards, regardless of you have a 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 board.Basically the sensor wire and positive voltage wire are flipped and this will cause your printer to panic and reboot every time you trip the filament sensor. If your printer is rebooting after installing this and testing the sensor, stop screwing with the sensor and unplug it. There is probably some protection built in to stop you frying the board but do you really want to find out?To fix this you need to flip the outer most wires, the red and white wires need to be on opposite ends on one side of the cable, it doesn’t matter which side, just pick a side and carefully press the little pin on the side of the connector for each wire and pull it out. It has something that works sort of like a fish hook, if you pull the wire and don’t press the little barb in you’ll probably break the wire in some way. Just carefully look at the side of the connector, realize there is a little needle like barb on the exposed metal part, press that little guy in and carefully pull the wire out of the connector. Do this for both of the outer wires. Then put them back in on the opposite side they came out.This will allow you to seat the connectors in the board and sensor properly, and have the pins in the correct order.The next pain in the butt.. the firmware I am using and I suspect the original Creality firmware has the style of detection reversed. What does this mean? Well basically when the filament sensor has filament in it, the board expects a high voltage signal basically 3v 5v etc. When that voltage goes to 0v it thinks the filament is out and triggers the filament run out alert.Well this sensor is using a switch that does the opposite.. that means when it is expecting 5v/3v it gets 0v and visa versa.The result is that this sensor tells the board the filament is out when there is filament in it, and when there is no filament in the sensor, the board thinks everything is totally normal. So now you have a sensor that tells the printer you are out of filament whenever you put filament through the sensor lol. The only fix I found for this is to compile some custom firmware.I cannot tell you how to do this in Creality firmware, but I can give you a summary of how to do it with jyers, however I am not going to go through an entire run down of how to get the firmware, setup the development tools etc. there is not enough space in this review to answer all the questions and give all the directions needed for that. So if you got the tech skills to figure out how to compile your own firmware then here is what you do.In your configuration.h file find the filament runout section.In there you’ll see the following#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOWChange it from. LOW to HIGHthen you’ll have#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWNComment out the pull up and uncomment the pull down. Compile the firmware and upload it to the printer.This will tell the firmware to look for the opposite conditions, instead of looking for 0v it’s going to look for 3v/5v or what ever this board uses for signaling voltage. This will make the sensor work correctly instead of Opposite Day.So to summarize you need to flip the outer wires of the cable and customize the firmware to make this work for an Ender 3 V2. …SO EASY AND CONVENIENT! DONT WAIT! BUY ONE OF THESE SENSORS TODAY AND YOU TOO CAN SPEND ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF LEARNING HOW TO COMPILE PRINTER FIRMWARE AND TROUBLESHOOTING WIRING ISSUES WHILE YOUR WIFE YELLS AT YOU TO GET TO BED ALREADY! ALL THIS AND MORE FOR JUST 7.99!! OPERATORS ARE STANDING BY TO FILL YOUR ORDER TODAY!Lol good luck guys, it does work but it’s a fiddly little device. I can confirm though if you are tech savvy you can totally make this thing work and it does work pretty well not going to lie, it’s been running this benchy with no issues, no false positives, feels like it makes a solid concept for a filament run out sensor. I really can’t see where it could mess up, like some of the others I have seen with rollers for example that if the roller gets gunked up it’s going to throw a false positive. This design seems like it would work fairly reliably.A word though, if you are not tech savvy … might be best to avoid this thing, unless you are feeling adventurous and have time to blow.4 stars for a good, simple, reliable concept, at least one star gone for making me a learn a bunch of crap I wasn’t expecting to learn just to make it work for my printer.To the manufacturer, please make one that is opposite in every way, I would totally pay extra just to buy one setup backwards from this one to avoid the headaches..Good luck to everyone trying to install this.And remember.. OPERATORS ARE STANDING BY! ORDER ONE TODAY!

Works great, also with ELEGOO Centauri Carbon, with an added ESP32S3 as per Utube 6JYKpZ3HX2Y

I bought the SFS V2.0, not the V1.0 which many reviews complained about. The V2 improves on the design flaws of the V1. The trigger pressure applied on the filament itself has never resulted in a jam thus far. However, BTT failed to provide sufficient documentation for older boards like SKR 1.3, 1.4, 1.4 turbo.I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo board with TMC 2209 drivers. To get this working with the latest Marlin (2.1.2) there were several things required:1) TMC2209 drivers or above need the 'diag' pin disconnected for E0 stepper drivers. This is a requirement for all other endstops to work as well, and has been documented in the BTT github repo for the BTT TMC2209 V3 stepper drivers.2) The documentation states to plug the motion sensor pins to E0DET and the switch sensor to to E1DET. This is WRONG. They must be swapped. This took me a very long time to figure out and was the main reason for troubleshooting issues. The switch sensor needs to be plugged into E0DET and motion sensor to E1DET, or you can re-map them digitally like I did by explicitly declaring the pin outputs for FIL_RUNOUT_PIN and FIL_RUNOUT_PIN2 respectively.3) I had to invert the endstop logic for the filament runout sensor. Instead of LOW I had to have it HIGH.4) You can find the STEP files on their SFS 2.0 github repo to design yourself a custom mount for your printhead. I have a direct drive setup, so I extended the X-Carriage backplate taller to fit a mount for the new sensor. It is easier to import the STEP file in CAD than measuring it out with a caliper, which is what I did initially before discovering the STEP file.Using this new device, I successfully have motion tracking and runout tracking working after many tests. It seems very reliable. I've had no issues with the actual device, except the lack of documentation which lost me 4 days figuring out with trial and error.Here is my configuration.h snippit for enabling the sensor. I hope it saves other people more time with other boards. Keep in mind I remapped the E0DET and E1DET pins instead of physically swapping them on the board.#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)#define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 followed by M500.#define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE HIGH // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present.#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.//#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins.//#define WATCH_ALL_RUNOUT_SENSORS // Execute runout script on any triggering sensor, not only for the active extruder.// This is automatically enabled for MIXING_EXTRUDERs.// Override individually if the runout sensors vary//#define FIL_RUNOUT1_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT1_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT1_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT2_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT2_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT2_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT3_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT3_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT3_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT4_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT4_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT4_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT5_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT5_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT5_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT6_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT6_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT6_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT7_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT7_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT7_PULLDOWN//#define FIL_RUNOUT8_STATE LOW//#define FIL_RUNOUT8_PULLUP//#define FIL_RUNOUT8_PULLDOWN// Commands to execute on filament runout.// With multiple runout sensors use the %c placeholder for the current tool in commands (e.g., "M600 T%c")// NOTE: After 'M412 H1' the host handles filament runout and this script does not apply.#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"// After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament// before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of// a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead.#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 10#ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM// Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin// as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM// large enough to avoid false positives.)#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN P1_25#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN2 P1_26#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR#define FILAMENT_SWITCH_AND_MOTION#endif#endif

I grabbed the BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Runout Sensor V2.0 for my Voron 2.4 running Klipper and I must say, it’s been a practical addition to my setup. Installation was pretty straightforward which was a relief. I was able to get it up and running in no time, and it integrated well with my existing setup.The sensor has been doing its job in reducing print errors. It's caught a couple of filament runout situations and saved me some potential headaches. The feature where it can detect not just filament runout but also breakage and clogging is something I find quite useful. It’s nice knowing that it's monitoring and will halt the print if something goes awry.One thing that stood out to me was the bilateral feeding feature. It’s a small thing but it does make the installation and filament feeding a tad bit easier, not having to discern between filament inlet and outlet.The sensor is lightweight, so I didn’t notice any added inertia to the direct-drive extruder which was a concern initially.I haven’t had to deal with false triggers so far, so the sensitivity of the sensor seems to be well-calibrated for my use.All in all, the BIGTREETECH Smart Filament Runout Sensor V2.0 has been a handy addition to my 3D printing setup. It’s been working as advertised, helping to catch filament issues early and save me from failed prints. It’s a small piece of hardware that’s added a bit more reliability to my printing process.